Nigel Potts' Solo Surf at Uluwatu: A Rare 1978 Adventure

In the surf-rich history of Bali, Uluwatu holds a special place. A tale from 1978 brings to life the raw, unspoiled beauty of this iconic surf spot and a daring adventure by ASI Director, Nigel Hutton-Potts.

Uluwatu is renowned for its perfectly formed left hand reef break, with waves peeling of down the line perfectly.   It had become even more famous on the world stage, after Hawaiian surfer, Gerry Lopez surfed the break in 1974.  

The Arrival and the Board

Nigel arrived in Bali, a magical place where culture and waves blend seamlessly.  He was keen to surf Uluwatu but only had a 5”10 surfboard.   He needed a gun to tackle Uluwatu. 

By coincidence, a friend in Bali had a 6'6" pintail shaped by the renowned Rodney Dalberg (an Australian and friend). Painted yellow, this Country Style board was not just a piece of equipment but a token of friendship and the spirit of surfing.

The Journey to the Break

Getting to the surf spot in 1978 was no easy feat. Nigel and his friends had to walk about half an hour through little fields, cactus-lined fencing, and past small villages with their boards. They left their motorbikes at Uluwatu Temple and embarked on the trek.  However, the sound of the waves reached them before the sight did, building anticipation of viewing and riding the famous break for the first time.

The Cave and the Challenge

The path led them to the famous Uluwatu cave, featuring old carved steps into the earth and a bamboo ladder. Nigel carried his board on his left shoulder, gripping the bamboo railing with his right hand. They had to climb onto a large rock within the cave and then jump down onto the sand. At high tide, the waves would wash up into the cave, making it more perilous to get out to the surf.

The Perfect Waves

Venturing out to Uluwatu surf break, Nigel faced warnings about the treacherous reef. The local surfers advised caution, as mis-timing a jump off the reef could lead to brutal wipeouts. Nigel was not discouraged.  He was an elite-advanced level surfer and was confident in handling large surf breaks.  

There was one person surfing the break.  After watching the surf thoroughly, noting the conditions and safety from the shore, and with the sun gently rising, Nigel paddled out into the ocean.

As he paddled out the other surfer came into shore.  The surf conditions were near perfection, with 6-8 foot waves rolling in consistently.  Nigel found himself alone on the waves, his girlfriend watched from the high up cliffs of the Bukit, capturing moments of his exhilarating rides.

A Surfing Paradise

For a brief time, Nigel experienced what many surfers dream of— having the iconic waves of Uluwatu completing to himself. Carving through the waves, he felt the thrill and tranquility that only such an isolated and picturesque setting could offer. It was a moment of pure connection with nature and the essence of surfing.

The Legacy

Today, Uluwatu is no longer the secluded paradise it once was. The secret of its perfect waves has spread, drawing hundreds of surfers from around the world. Now, surfers can drive to the top of Uluwatu, park, and walk down concrete steps past fancy warungs.

Nigel's tale stands as a poignant reminder of the early days of surfing in Bali— a time when the breaks were less crowded, and the adventures were raw and untamed.

It’s a testament to the spirit of surfing: the courage to face challenges, the joy of riding the perfect wave, and the enduring memories of moments shared with friends and nature.

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